Skokie's Best

Living on the border of Chicago and a few Northshore suburbs for almost my entire life, I have not been very lucky, food-wise. There's Little India down Devon Avenue, Buffalo Joe's in Evanston. But what about Skokie? Alas, Chef Armando Gonzalez (formerly Bin 36, MK) comes to town, village rather, and is quietly taking it over with his Latin American eatery. Libertad, meaning "freedom," is exactly that: breaking free from your traditional taqueria and burrito joint. Influenced by Argentinian, Brazilian, and Mexican cuisine, Chef Gonzalez's take on the ever so popular small plate dining experience also has hints of Mediterranean flavors. Are you intrigued? Keep reading.

The menu itself is small, with no more than fifteen items. A menu like this can go one of two ways: top to bottom perfect or disastrous. In short, it is obvious Chef Gonzalez and his staff have worked hard to develop their offerings. It is absolutely stunning. The menu is divided into three categories: vegetarian, fish, and meat. Being a small plate restaurant, it is only natural to sample dishes from all categories. Here are a few things we shared:

Service begins with a compliment from the kitchen, typically an individual soup. On this particular evening, we were presented with a split pea soup, infused with serrano peppers. A very smooth texture, this non-traditional soup definitely packs some heat. A wonderful start to the evening.

The is a wonderful example of the relationship between Latin American and Mediterranean cuisine. A chipotle infused hummus is served with a very light chapati (Indian) tortilla. Texturally, the hummus is familiar. However, taste is where you truly see the beauty of Chef Gonzalez's work. The chipotle flavor is not overpowering, nor is it very spicy. It adds a smokiness to what would be a fantastic traditional hummus.

The next course to come out was the peras salad. Lying on a bed of arugula, asian pears, cabreles cheese, and pecans each add a distinct element to the dish. Textually, the Asian pears and pecans provide a crunch, with the cheese complementing with a smooth consistency. Sweet and salty flavors are introduced with pears and pecans, while a balsamic vinaigrette adds a tangy bite.

With two vegetarian dishes down, a meat must make the list. Alas, pork belly. Served with white beans, chard, and truffle oil, this dish is absolutely divine. Cooked perfectly, the texture is crispy on the outside and melt in your mouth savory on the inside. The subtlety of the beans and chard are supplemented by the truffle oil, which shines bright in the dish.

Libertad has also made a huge effort to provide diners with an extensive beverage list. Bringing in one of Food & Wine's top sommeliers of 2011, Shebnem Ince, Libertad offers a quite an array of wine, craft beers, and house-made cocktails.

Co-owner J. Omar Magana brings a modern feel to the decor, with pieces of his own artwork that make dining at Libertad very intimate (in part why there are no photographs to accompany this post...I did not want to be that guy). Dimly lit tables add to the intimacy, with the brightest lights shining over the small, open kitchen. Libertad utilizes its space as best it can, lining the walls with booth-like seats, tables the restaurant, and a bar with stools for solo or happy hour diners.

Without a doubt, service at Libertad is second to none. From the host to the wait staff to the beverage and food runners, Libertad definitely takes care of their guests. With the background that Chef Gonzalez has, I honestly am not surprised. These details, cuisine, decor, and service, separate Libertad from any other restaurant in Skokie. And with that said, Libertad is easily Skokie's best restaurant.

Slurping Good Time

What comes to mind when you think of ramen? You might think of those dried packs of noodles with seasoning packets that can be had for about 10 cents at the grocery store. And if you’re like me, then you’ve probably had your fair share of it through the years. But amazingly enough, the Japanese actually legitimately enjoy and eat ramen on a frequent basis. It stands to reason then that it can’t all be bad and there must be something delicious about it.

I don’t know if Takashi Yagihashi is on a mission to change minds about Japanese noodles but he’s done a good job so far. Following on the success of the hugely popular Sunday noodles at his eponymous Michelin Star restaurant Takashi, and the aptly named Noodles by Takashi Yagihashi eatery inside Macy’s, comes his latest izakaya restaurant Slurping Turtle. The name (and cute turtle logo) encourages diners to suck up bowls of broth, noodles, rice and more.



Upon arrival on a busy Saturday night, our name and number were taken and we were quoted a 45 minute wait. In the meantime my friend and I sauntered around the corner and stopped at Roka Akor for drinks, or in particular—shochu. For those who don’t know, it’s a Japenese spirit typically from barley, sweet potatoes or rice and stronger than your normal wine or beer. I settled on the spicy mango shochu infusion that was served over a block of ice and was pleasantly satisfied with the decision. In short, it was a refreshing distilled beverage with a hint of mango and a spicy kick. I would definitely try another one again and would have if our table at Slurping Turtle hadn’t been ready for us at that point.

Now the décor at Slurping Turtle actually caught me a bit off guard. I was expecting somewhat of a smaller place (think Urban Belly) and the large, sleek and modern room threw me. I actually managed to completely walk by the place while attempting to find it at first. Nonetheless, the inside is lined with booths and a few tables but a majority of the seating is at a long communal table in the center of the room. There’s also a bar and some isolated cove booths in an upstairs section overlooking the dining area.

The menu is comprised of an array of different items aside from ramen. Dumplings and hot tapas serve as appetizers, noodle and rice dishes are the main highlights, and you can order sashimi and other meats off the bincho grill. We ordered the duck-fat fried chicken to start, which was served with some sort of sauce and pickled vegetables, and I was pretty underwhelmed. I’m not sure if we just got a bad batch because others have raved about it but the chicken was dry and nothing special. It pains me to say that too, because I really, really love fried chicken but this was a major disappointment. Maybe I should temper my expectations from now on regarding stuff that’s fried in duck-fat because it always ends in heartbreak *cough* Hot Doug’s fries *cough*

Fortunately, the noodles saved the day. I had the Tan tan men, a reddish chili broth loaded with ground pork, succulent pork meatballs and an extra egg I added. This hit the perfect spot because if I could have things my way, most foods would be available spicy. The crimp noodles were cooked just right and the meatballs … well the meatballs were the stars. These things were juicy, packed with flavor and I dare say could give even the best Italian joints a run for their money. When I reached the bottom of the bowl I was filled with sadness. Because I wanted more. More meatballs.

While I can’t tell you how the rest of the menu fares, I can say that the ramen we had were delectable. There’s also a full dessert menu of macaroons, ice creams and such, as well as a drinks list including wine, sake, Japanese and craft beers. The prices won’t break the bank—the main dishes top out at $14—and the casual atmosphere makes it an ideal lunch spot. As a stand-alone noodle shop I would happily drop in again to slurp away like an 8 year-old at those noodle cravings I often get. And that’s how I think Yagihashi wants it.

Sea food like GT

It seems as though Chicago is being taken over by the Boka Restaurant Group. But who are they? Founded by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm, the Boka Group has become one of Chicago's premier restaurant groups in the country. With three internationally recognized chefs, Stephanie Izard, Paul Virant, and Giuseppe Tentori, the Boka Group has taken over the Chicago dining scene in a mere eight years.

It all started with Boehm and Katz first restaurant Boka, derived after their last names. With Giuseppe Tentori at the reigns, Boka has been awarded numerous awards, including Food and Wines Best New Chef (2008) and a coveted Michelin Star rating two years in a row. But how does one follow up such a highly regarded restaurant? With a seafood bar, of course.

The concept behind GT Fish & Oyster, named after Chef GT, takes both a traditional and modern approach on seafood. How? Chef Tentori offers a menu that features French Osetra Caviar Service and fish tacos, that's how.

The menu actually consists of cold items, hot plates, oysters, and non-seafodd dishes. Our party of four was out for Jeffy's birthday, and we were pretty hungry. We ordered nine different dishes, a little off of each menu, minus the non-seafood dishes. Our meal began with a the lone cold item on our list: Baja Shrimp Bruschetta. Each order has four pieces; we wound up ordering two. A twist on traditional bruschetta, this masterfully crafted appetizer has hints of citrus and cilantro, with crisp textures from the bread and nuts.

Arguably the most interesting thing we ordered...oysters. The four of us were rookies and had no idea how to order them, differences in taste, anything. Our server was kind enough to explain the different types: east coast and west coast. There were allusions to the feud between Biggie Smalls and Tupac, which were quite amusing, but really there is some truth to the comparisons. One type of oyster is plump, like the rapper. Additionally, tastes differ, with one being more grainy and saltier than the other. How did we like them? Well, let's just say that we're going to order oysters cooked...and we did.

Following the cold dishes were an array of hot items. Among the plates were oyster po'boy sliders, gnocchi with smoked salmon, fish and chips, lobster roll, striped bass, and GT lobster mac n cheese. Easily one of the best things I've eaten in recent memory, the oyster po'boy sliders. Lightly breaded and fried, these bite-sized snacks are layered with kimchi and peanuts.

Highlighting the rest of our meal in a single word: divine. Gnocchi so rich and creamy, served with a copious amount of smoked salmon. Fish and chips fried to perfection, paired with a very subtle tartar sauce. A lobster roll overflowing with goodness, lying next to a bed of friend onions. Striped bass so succulent, complemented by a variety of vegetables. Mac n cheese that lives up to all the hype. There honestly isn't anything that we didn't enjoy.

Rounding out our birthday celebration, a pair of Pastry Chef Sarah Jordan's delectable creations. One, a creme brulee that seemed to be made effortlessly, but tasted extraordinary. The caramelized top was covered with pieces of fruit, which sweetened the custard dessert. Two, a salted banana caramel tart served with a palate cleansing vanilla ice cream. A pair of stunning desserts to end an already amazing dinner.

Were we surprised to be wowed by the Boka Group's latest creation? No, but it's the way that Chef Tentori does it. Taking a traditional approach to cuisine and tying modern elements, mixed with the seasonality of ingredients. That's why Chef Tentori is one of the best.

A Trip Down Memory Lane

If there's one restaurant that could capture all the buzz and excitement going around the ever-growing Chicago culinary scene at the moment, Next would be at the top of the list. The brainchild of Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas, as well as chef Dave Beran (who can't seem to stop winning awards), has become the talk of the town almost overnight and received more accolades in less than a year than most places could even dream of. With a continually-changing menu that has already served food from Paris in 1906 and Thailand, the latest concept brings us back to our childhood. If you're like me, then you're probably already scoffing at the idea of eating peanut butter & jelly and mac & cheese but bear with me and read on to see if it can live up to the hype.

Born from Achatz's and Beran's midwest experiences growing up in Michigan, the menu was a reflection of what they, and many American kids, ate when they were young. As someone who's tried the previous two menus, I went into this one with some tempered expectations of sorts. I guess the staff at Next was aware of my apprehensiveness because upon seating we were all given little gift boxes, neatly wrapped and all. It opened to reveal our treat—a PB&J bite—and who doesn't like a present? We were carefully instructed by the servers to place the whole bite into our mouths before biting down and squirting the tasty liquid out. Well ... three quarters of my table managed to do so while one disregarded the warning (like a child!) and ended up with a messy water glass afterwards. Chicken soup was the second course, which our server succinctly described as "not your regular Progresso." The broth immediately evoked images of cold winter evenings and sick days home from school, and the "noodles" in the bowl were noodles of chicken, adding a playful touch.

Perhaps the most amusing dish was the fish & chips. Drawn onto the plate as if a child were given the terrifying free reigns in a kitchen, a fishing scene was produced from a filet of walleye, a fried potato net, cucumber salad waves, a shore of beer-batter crumbs, tartar sea foam and a Meyer lemon sun. I'm not the biggest seafood fan, but I must say the walleye was one of the best I've had.

We followed that up with mac & cheese accompanied by a "merry-go-round" of garnishes including a ham pinwheel, a reconstituted hot dog and apple, as well as others. Once again, this was the finest macaroni and cheese I've ever had—rich, creamy and cooked perfectly al dente.

The next course was just visually stunning. A walk through a Michigan "Winter Wonderland" brought us to a salad unlike any other. I'll admit I wasn't even sure what I was eating most of the time except for crispy greens and a mushroom but it was fantastic. It was expectedly earthy with a pleasant aroma and although it felt like you were eating a forrest, you just couldn't stop. And trust me, I didn't want to.

Next up was a hamburger, whose quality was just a tad better than your average Big Mac. It was deconstructed with all your usual toppings strewn about the plate. As for the meat, short ribs served as a more-than-acceptable substitute for a beef patty.

Now who doesn't remember being sent off to school each day with a lunch box? Fond memories of opening it up and being excited or disappointed with your haul and then haggling with your friends to get rid of that apple your mom knows you hate in exchange for a real fruit—fruit roll-up. Fortunately, Next left the lame stuff at home and packed my (Alf!) box with chocolate pudding, wagyu jerky, a truffled Oreo, homemade funyun, apple-brandy fruit roll-up and mixed berry drink inside a Wizard of Oz thermos. I enjoyed them all but I think I liked the idea of a truffled Oreo more than the actual thing. There wasn't anything wrong with it but something about the combination was just a little strange for my tastes. Nonetheless, they were delightful after-dinner treats and even came with notes from our "family." Mine told me to stop painting the cat blue. Oops, sorry Grandma I'll try to work on that.

Between courses they brought our table special bubble gum floats because we've been repeat diners (or because we're kind of a big deal). Big kudos to the staff for keeping close track of their customers. By this point I'm thoroughly full but there's still more food to be had! I (not so) reluctantly trudge on toward cider doughnuts with a foie gras frosting (foie-sting). The frosting came with beaters, which we were told to lick, and lick we did. It was savory, both sweet and salty, and a foie gras that everyone at my table could agree they liked. Because maybe I'm an uncultured heathen but foie gras is not my favorite, or even top 100 favorite, thing in the world. But this foie-sting? Give me another beater please.



For the grand finale, a small campfire was set up on the table and sweet potato logs were burned. The logs were then added into an assortment of things on our plates that comprised a sweet potato pie. It was another fun element added into the deconstruction of a classic dessert. And when you have an open fire with marshmallows around, what do you do? I think you already know the answer to that one. Capping it all off was a rich cup of hot cocoa that I could not finish, not because I didn't enjoy it but because I was way beyond satiated at that point.

In the end, all of my initial doubts were erased and from start to finish, this was my favorite of the three menus so far. They say it's the simple things in life that are the most extraordinary and that was the case with these childhood dishes. I can't wait to hopefully try what's to come. Until we meet again, Next.